Picnics in the Azores

Maria’s grandmother had 25 grandchildren. Everyone will agree that 25 grandchildren are a lot of work when they’re young. Especially when they get together on vacation at their grandmother’s farm. What’s more, 25 brats eat a lot, a lot indeed. All day long. But in the Azores, the land is very generous in its giving. Here, eating is a constant celebration. That’s why tea-time for Maria and the other 24 was always fabulous.

Here’s what she remembers about afternoon snacks until she was 14 or 15: “Lots of watermelon, lots of bread with blackberry or white grape jam, sandwiches, croquettes, cakes, malassada!”. (Put down “malassada” on your notebook: great, sweet, fluffy, fried dough). And what better place to enjoy all this than in the shade of a tree on grandma’s property? It’s quite easy to see why the business Maria decided to start is solely focused on picnic. Great picnics, we must stress.

We’re on the north coast of São Miguel, in the town of Rabo de Peixe. (Yes, Rabo de Peixe, where the famous Netflix series of the same name is set.) It’s the largest island in the Azores, more or less in the middle of the North Atlantic. Green dominates the landscape, and it has a surprising climate. The common saying that all four seasons occur here in one day is true. It’s an amazing (sleeping) volcanic archipelago, full of mystical lagoons and deep valleys. They could have filmed “Lord of the Rings” here, it would have made perfect sense.

Maria lived and studied in the mainland for many years, but a few years ago she decided to return to her birthplace. “I wanted to devote myself to those little things that make me happy… The contact with the immense nature that surrounds us, of which I have very fond childhood memories.” Around 2017 she turned her emotions into a practical plan. It’s true that São Miguel is full of great restaurants. But no one like Maria brings us to taste the products of her land in direct contact with the natural world.

“We have beautiful places to organize a picnic. All you must do is ask. Sometimes we walk half an hour to set it up in the ideal place. We can go from the countryside to the seaside. If the weather takes a turn for the worse, we can deliver it to your hotel room.”

The picnics take place on the grass or at the many tables scattered around the island’s parks. One of the most extraordinary spots is the Empadadas Lakes, a small twin lake away from the tourist frenzy. Or the little-known Cumeeiras Belvedere, overlooking the Seven Cities Lake.

The most popular menu is the Regional Picnic. It includes rissoles, fish cakes, a cheese table, pineapple cake (the sweet king of the Azores!), octopus’ salad, milk cheese tarts, the delicious local wine, white and red… Madness! Yet, everything is prepared to suit the nationality and tastes of the guests. To Maria, the customer is indeed always right. A connection to original tastes must always be respected.

If there are kids, there’s a separate table. It will be full of delicacies designed for them, including lots of fruit kebabs. The delicious strawberry-guava dominates, a fruit grown all over the island.

Maria loves what she does. You know what she doesn’t like? “I hate restaurants! They’re too noisy!” Well, that makes perfect sense. Anyone who grew up on picnics with 25 children is quite sure that it’s much better to have a big meadow to let off steam, while enjoying the unique flavors of the Azores. Maria, you’re right. Off to the fields, then! We have an Azorean appetite!