In Lisbon, everyone knows it. It’s part of everyday life in such a casual way that its uniqueness easily risks going unnoticed. If someone asks about the city historical cafes, it’s common to immediately mention three or four names, all located in the downtown area, frequented by poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) and other personalities of Portuguese culture. Faced with this question, it’s rare that someone mentions Galeto, in República Avenue, near the Saldanha Square, and yet, it’s very likely that this name will be the beginning of a long conversation where everyone ends up sharing their personal memories about it, the time they spent at that counter.
Anyone who steps inside Galeto immediately realizes that one of the main features of this space is the counter. It stretches meters and meters, forming a kind of geometric serpentine, along hundreds of high stools. This structure is crucial to the spirit of the whole place. Galeto is not a café; it’s a snack-bar. In 1966, when it was inaugurated, it belonged to a movement influenced by the post-war era and the American boom, bringing new habits to Portugal. Unlike the grand cafes of the 19th century and of the first half of the 20th century, focused on the use of tables, which meant seated groups and the service of waiters, Galeto proposed a more democratic, less hierarchical relationship. Customers sat side by side, sharing the counter, while the staff emerged from the inside of the counter, facing the customers at their level.
Even today, this is how Galeto works. When we enter, we look for vacant seats and don’t know what to expect; we have to be open to surprise, to meeting up new people. We don’t ignore the person sitting next to us, who will not ignore us either. This is how Galeto works, this is how Lisbon works. At its core, cultures are the way people relate to each other, which is the same as saying: it’s the way people evaluate each other.
The architects behind this architecture, this manifesto about coexistence, was the duo Victor Palla and Bento d’Almeida. For over twenty years, they worked together, developing numerous projects, particularly over thirty snack-bars. They conceived the entire aesthetics of the space, from furniture to design, from azulejos to menus. This was also an innovative approach. Often, as in Galeto, they invited painters and sculptors to create specific pieces for each project. These contributions were crucial to the sophistication and character of each environment.
But, as I said before, it’s difficult for personal memories not to intrude. While describing the counter, recalling the details of the decoration, episodes from the past immediately come to my mind. It was during university years that I spent more time in the chairs of Galeto. Often, on the eve of exams, I would arrive for late-night meals. Galeto closes at 3:30 a.m. It is opened every day, except on the 1st of May. One of the house specialties is banana split. There’s still plenty of time to create incredible memories here.
