Torre de Palma Wine Hotel

Some 200 kilometers northwest of Lisbon, very close to the Spanish border, there’s a Roman villa that’s around 1800 years old, geological mysteries that intrigue NASA scientists and a luxury resort accustomed to awards and nominations in the most demanding wine tourism and architecture competitions. Everything radiates from and converges at the Torre de Palma Wine Hotel, on the vast plains of the Alto Alentejo, and this magnet happened because of a tribute to Luísa’s grandmother.

Luísa is the face of communication at Torre de Palma. Her paternal grandmother was born not far away, near the city of Elvas, but grew up in the center of the country and was a teacher in Coimbra. She always wanted to return to her roots, but life got the better of her. “If my mother didn’t make it, we’ll do it for her,” said Paulo, Luísa’s father, over a decade ago. The whole family – with mother Ana and the four children – got on board, and in 2014 the magnificent hotel was built.

The historical intensity of this place is complex and fascinating. The hotel is housed in a building and property from the first half of the 14th century, founded by one of the sons of the medieval King Dinis, and remained in the Portuguese Crown for half a century. Some 500 meters away is the Roman villa of the Basilii, which existed between the 1st and 5th centuries AD and is one of the most important archaeological sites in the country. A 15-minute drive away is the Cabeço de Vide Natural Spa, whose medicinal waters were also used by the Romans around a 100 years BC, and which is now fully operational (this is what has NASA interested – we’ll get there). But let’s talk about wine.

“The first thing we did was to plant the vineyard,” says Luísa. “Then we designed the buildings. And what we produce is a unique wine, completely handmade, of the highest quality. In fact, wine has been made in Torre de Palma for 2,000 years, since the Romans. We have the perfect conditions. From harvest to bottling, every step is done by hand – and you can try this in a workshop, including wine blending. All the red grapes are trodden by foot. This gives the wine a lot of elegance, so you don’t notice the heavier tannins.”

The list of awards is long. The so-called Oscars of Portuguese tourism (Publituris) awarded Torre de Palma the prize for Best Wine Tourism in Portugal and Best Tasting Room. Architecture is fundamental: in 2015 João Mendes Ribeiro’s project was selected for the FAD Awards (Iberian Peninsula) and the Mies van der Rohe Award, the most important in Europe.

All the experiences at Torre de Palma revolve around wine, including vinotherapy in the spa. To this is added the organic production of olive oil, honey, cookies, charcuterie and cheeses. There are picnics to be had in the olive grove with all this and whatever comes out of the kitchen of Miguel Laffan, one of Portugal’s most Michelin-starred chefs. The discovery of this small universe extends to hot air balloon rides, bicycle routes and, of course, the incredible night sky. There’s almost zero light pollution and a telescope in the hotel tower for stargazing. Afterwards, relaxation is absolute. The master suite, for example, with a view of the olive grove and a private pool, is irresistible.

“We’re in a magnificent region,” says Luísa. “From Marvão to Castelo de Vide and the São Mamede Mountains, the beauty is impressive and everything is steeped in history. We’re also close to Évora, Portalegre, Estremoz… There’s so much to do!”. But let’s talk horses.

The Roman villa of the Basilii next to the hotel is also an art gallery of the ancient world. One of its ex-libris is the Mosaic of the Horses, in which five beautiful animals have been immortalized – everything indicates that they would have been among the most outstanding in races of the time, so much so that we know how they were named. One of them is Lenobatis, and that was the name given to one of the horses belonging to the Torre de Palma stud farm.

Yes, along with wine and all those experiences, equestrian wisdom is also cultivated here with the country’s purest breed, the Lusitano horses. Luísa says: “We have rides through the vineyards and riding lessons for beginners and children. The little ones can take part in workshops where they learn how to feed and clean the horses. Basically, everything we do here is connected, nature, history and wine.” And it’s not just history. The future is also present.

The geological mysteries we’ve mentioned are of interest to NASA for the exploration of Mars. A few years ago, Portuguese scientists realized that the hydrogeological system of Cabeço de Vide, the natural spa a few minutes from Torre de Palma, may support underground life, micro-organisms that don’t need sunlight. This is very similar to what is suspected to exist on that planet, which is why the space agency has sent researchers to this part of the Alentejo.

“So they say that life on Earth may have started here too!” It’s remarkable how Luísa is constantly excited about her Torre de Palma, as if she had nothing to do with the hotel and all the experiences, as if she was discovering these fascinations every day. The clear nights again, for example: “I’ve seen more phenomena in the sky here than anywhere else in my life!”.

That’s why the following story makes a lot of sense, as Luísa tells it: “Many years ago, when Torre de Palma was abandoned, a group of French people came and spent several nights lying on the ground in the main courtyard. They came to receive the positive energies of the place.”

“And the truth is that we feel that people who stay with us also share that feeling. They leave refreshed. They know that there’s something special here.”

Quite something, Torre de Palma. Wouldn’t you agree?